Sung La Valley, Ha Giang: A charming realm of the highlands in The Story of Pao

Where is Sung La Valley?

Sung La Valley is located on QL4C, about 130 km from the center of Ha Giang City toward Dong Van District. This valley lies in Sung La Commune, Dong Van District, about 20 km from the district center. It’s one of the most famous valleys in Ha Giang, often called a “blooming flower” of the rocky plateau for its unspoiled and peaceful beauty.

The valley is surrounded by majestic limestone mountains. During autumn, fields of white buckwheat flowers, tinged with light pink, bloom alongside yellow rapeseed flowers. This paints the landscape with vibrant colors. The traditional mud-walled houses of the Hmong people add a touch of nostalgia.

To reach Sung La Valley, follow QL4C – the main route in Ha Giang. For a deeper exploration, you can also take DT181, which meanders through mountain villages.

From the center of Ha Giang City, visitors can choose to go on QL4C or turn to DT181 at Thuan Hoa Bridge across the Lo River.

The Story of Pao: Authentic and profound

The film The Story of Pao is based on the short story Jew’s Harp Sound Behind a Rocky Fence by writer Do Bich Thuy. Set mainly in Sung La Valley, the film introduced the serene beauty of Sung La to audiences far and wide.

The movie follows Pao (played by Do Thi Hai Yen), a Hmong girl living in a poor village on the rocky plateau. Pao’s life is simple until she discovers the truth about her estranged mother. The journey to find her mother is a journey of self-discovery, where she learns about family, love, and life.

Praised for its unique integration of Hmong music and sound, the film conveys a tranquil and authentic atmosphere. The cool, muted tones reflect the somber, quiet highlands. Its slow pace invites viewers to appreciate the delicate cinematography and performances.

Do Thi Hai Yen (the actress who plays Pao) and Giang Thi Thuong (the inspiration for the original work Jew’s Harp Sound Behind a Rocky Fence).

Sung La Valley in The Story of Pao

Beyond just Pao’s personal story, the film paints a vivid picture of Ha Giang’s rugged natural beauty and culture. Sung La Valley is recaptured perfectly, allowing the mountains to resonate with nostalgia.

The rolling mountain ranges in nostalgic tones

Every time the camera turns towards the green mountains of Sung La Valley, the typical sounds and music of the highlands resound. They seem to blend into the natural landscape. The sound of the harp and the flute of the Hmong people waft in the wind, carrying the nostalgic sound of the mountains and forests.

The resonance between vision and hearing makes viewers not only look but also feel the slow, quiet pace of life here. All this creates a profound feeling.

Sung La Valley from afar at Doc Chin Khoanh on QL4C. Source: Vietnam National Authority of Tourism.

The golden splendor of rapeseed flower fields

In contrast to the romantic beauty of buckwheat flowers, the yellow rapeseed flower field in The Story of Pao brings a feeling of sorrow and regret.

The brilliant yellow color under the highland sunlight seems to contrast with the heartbreaking separations in the film. First, it’s the separation between Pao and her mother - Sim - the biological mother who abandoned her. Then, it’s the unfulfilled love between Pao and Chu. The yellow rapeseed flower field in the film becomes a symbol of separation and loss. Even when Pao falls into a dream on her journey to find her mother, the image of that field still appears. This reminds Pao of her endless sadness.

Sung La Valley appears in a brilliant yellow color during the rapeseed flower season. Source: Cattour.

The simple lives of the highland people

Images of the daily life of the highland people are also accurately depicted in the film. They are shown through scenes of bustling market days or daily work such as grinding rice, pounding rice, embroidering clothes, and cutting vegetables for livestock.

The sounds of labor, such as the sound of pounding rice, are repeated, even when the image of the mortar no longer appears in the frame. This is to emphasize the simple, regular atmosphere of highland life. The humming voice of Kia’s mother in the Hmong language at the beginning of the film and Pao at the end of the film, the same song, resounding in front of Kia’s mother’s grave, further enhances the feeling of sorrow.

Ha Giang Market is recreated realistically and vividly in The Story of Pao. Source: Hagiangsensetravel.com.

The traditional houses of the Hmong people

The living space in The Story of Pao is described realistically down to every detail. This is far from the perfect setting in many other movies. The Hmong people’s mud-walled house is dark, mossy, and old, giving the feeling that everything is surprisingly real.

With mud walls, stone fences, wooden handrails, and faded yin-yang tiled roofs, the house appears as a testament to time. This gives viewers a clearer sense of the ancient, simple life of the Hmong people on the Ha Giang Stone Plateau.

A traditional Hmong house, mossy and discolored, served as the main setting in The Story of Pao. Source: Saigoneer.

Top attractions in Sung La Valley

Here are some notable attractions in and around Sung La Valley, each offering unique natural, cultural, and historical experiences.

Pao’s house – The filming location in The Story of Pao

Pao’s house in Ha Giang, the house where The Story of Pao was filmed, has now become a famous check-in spot for tourists to Ha Giang. This traditional house bears the cultural imprint of the Hmong people and tells the story of Pao’s life through every corner. This place is not only an ideal destination for taking photos but also for feeling the peaceful, rustic atmosphere and unique community cultural values.

Pao’s house is simple with stone walls and faded yin-yang tiled roofs. Source: Ha Giang Radio and Television Station.

Pao’s house is now a favorite check-in spot for many visitors. Source: Bui Hai Giang.

Lung Cam Cultural Tourist Village

Located in the middle of Sung La Valley, Lung Cam is the village where Pao’s house is located. Surrounding the village are fields of buckwheat flowers blooming in the fall. Visitors can walk around to enjoy the peaceful space, admire the traditional mud-walled houses, and experience the tourist services here. Don’t forget to enjoy the specialties and shop for handicrafts made by local people.

Lung Cam is where Pao’s house is located. Source: Propaganda Department of Ha Giang Provincial Party Committee.

Pho Bang Ancient Town

About 5 km northwest of Sung La Valley, Pho Bang Ancient Town impresses with its ancient houses and long-standing architecture. This is an ideal destination for those who like to stroll and explore houses with yin-yang tiled roofs or ancient stone walls. The quiet landscape of Pho Bang, combined with the quiet, small streets, creates a beautiful setting for taking photos and learning about local history.

Pho Bang Town with its ancient houses and long-standing architecture. Source: Bui Hoai Bac.

Pho Bang Market Day

Pho Bang Market Day is held once a week on Sunday, attracting many locals and tourists to buy and sell goods. Here, visitors can explore local products such as brocade clothes, hand-woven fabrics, and clean agricultural products from the highlands. The market offers a unique experience of the trading culture of the indigenous people. This is also a meeting place and connection between ethnic communities in Ha Giang.

Peach blossoms in Pho Cao

About 2.5 km southwest of Sung La Valley, the peach blossom viewing spot in Pho Cao is an ideal place to see peach blossoms in spring. Pink peach blossoms blooming on both sides of the road amidst green rocky mountains create a poetic, peaceful, and romantic scene. Tourists often come here to take pictures, enjoy the fresh air, and admire the gentle beauty of peach blossoms amidst the majestic mountains.

The peach blossom viewing spot in Pho Cao is beautiful in Ha Giang’s spring. Source: Van Cam Luu.

Doc Chin Khoanh

Located about 3.6 km southwest of Sung La Valley, Doc Chin Khoanh is one of the most unique checkpoints on QL4C in Ha Giang. With winding curves between the rolling mountains, this slope road is not only the gateway to Sung La Valley. It also offers breathtaking scenery for tourists who love taking photos of majestic nature.

Doc Chin Khoanh is one of the best checkpoints on QL4C in Ha Giang. Source: Mia.vn.

Useful travel tips in Sung La Valley

When traveling to Sung La Valley, you’ll need to bear in mind a few things. Some include time, clothing, and how to enjoy local culture to have the best Sung La travel experience.

Best time to visit Sung La Valley

Sung La Valley in Ha Giang is most beautiful in spring and autumn. Spring, from December to February, is when peach blossoms, plum blossoms, and yellow rapeseed flowers bloom. In autumn, from September to November, the buckwheat flower fields attract tourists to check in and explore the majestic nature. The average temperature in Ha Giang ranges from 21.5°C - 25°C, ideal for year-round tourism activities.

Where to stay in Sung La Valley

Sung La Valley has not yet developed tourism strongly, so accommodation options are quite limited, and there are no large hotels. Tourists mainly stay at small homestays owned by local people. Some well-reviewed homestays include:

• Nha Pao Homestay (120m from central Sung La)
• Homestay Anh Mua (160m)
• Mộc Homestay (1km)
• Dinh Thuan Homestay (1.4km)
• My Retreat Phố Cáo (2.9km)
• Local Dong Van Homestay (6.1km)
• Nhà Cổ Lao Xa Homestay (7.3km)

Local Dong Van Homestay is one of the most popular accommodations in Ha Giang. Source: Internet.

What to eat in Sung La Valley

When traveling to Sung La Valley, don’t miss the opportunity to enjoy Ha Giang specialties. Try Thang Co (simmered horse meat), buckwheat pie, and Men Men (steamed cornmeal). All are traditional delicious dishes of the Hmong people. These dishes are not only unique in flavor but also typical of the culinary culture in Ha Giang.

Buckwheat pie has a slightly sweet taste and a grainy aroma. Source: Bao Lao Dong.

What to wear in Sung La Valley

Visitors should bring warm clothes because the weather in Ha Giang is quite cold, especially in the evening and early morning. Layered clothes, anti-slip sneakers, and windbreaker jackets are ideal choices. There are shops that rent traditional costumes of the Hmong people. So choose a beautiful outfit for yourself to take impressive photos.

Local children wear the traditional costumes of the Hmong people. Source: Lu Hanh Viet Nam.

How to interact with local people

While in Sung La, especially when staying at homestays, take the time to interact with the locals. This can help you understand more about their culture and customs. The Hmong people are very hospitable. Visitors can learn how to embroider, cook, take part in the market day, or enjoy traditional music during the exchanges.

Which is your favorite part of The Story of Pao? Discover Sung La Valley yourself and feel the wild, peaceful beauty here. Enjoy nature combined with local culture for an unforgettable experience in Ha Giang.

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